I stayed with Matteo near Trastevere. The Roman summer night was boiling hot and when I arrived at the restaurant in the piazza, not only was I giddy from having been awake for a thousand years, but my clothes were soaked in sweat and my shoulders ached from carrying my heavy bag. I had worked so hard to pack light and go minimalist but I could already tell I had brought way too much.

But holy shit. I was in Rome.

We had dinner. I had a radicchio risotto with Gorgonzola. It was pink but delicious and toothsome. He had lasagna. Apparently real Italian people actually eat…